CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Jon,
I don't know what FSF stands for, as the guy who did it was Colby H., what do you think it stands for (Front Shackle Fup)? I've attached a picture from above. The tube is 1/4" thick, I plan on talking to Darrell that he might want to replace it with a solid 2" x 2" bat, but that would add some weight, and not reinforce the attachment to the plate. He went this route so he can use the winch on the farm as well.
Hey when this one is done, I've still got to start the TLC on my YJ, finish the 46 PW, and someday do the 49 PW and 64 PW's. I have plenty of work lined up, but what do you pay?
Thanks,
Will
I don't know what FSF stands for, as the guy who did it was Colby H., what do you think it stands for (Front Shackle Fup)? I've attached a picture from above. The tube is 1/4" thick, I plan on talking to Darrell that he might want to replace it with a solid 2" x 2" bat, but that would add some weight, and not reinforce the attachment to the plate. He went this route so he can use the winch on the farm as well.
Hey when this one is done, I've still got to start the TLC on my YJ, finish the 46 PW, and someday do the 49 PW and 64 PW's. I have plenty of work lined up, but what do you pay?
Thanks,
Will
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Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Chopping the length of the tube on the winch side down a bit might also help; you could re-drill a hole for the hitch pin. I would think that putting the winch closer to the vehicle would help reduce sideways stress on the mount in an angled pull... less leverage.
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
I completed the Engine side wiring clean up. Now to get some wire cover to swap it in. Still need to connect the start relay, but will need the finders installed to do that. I routed the Holley Pro-Jection harness into the tub, but not sure where I'll mount the controller. I installed the hood and windshield. I don't recommend the stainless steel hinges, the 90° bend isn't sharp enough. The wipers work, but the park function doesn't. I know the wiper motor was not tight and partially open, so I suspect something is wrong in the motor. I also fabricated the Parking Brake valve bracket and lines, and once dry can install it as well.
As for the winch tube length, yep already have a new holes 3" closer to the winch marked to drill.
Thanks,
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
If the wipers just stop mid-travel wherever you turn them off, there's probably a break in one of the wires. I don't remember which color, but one of the wires in the group should have keyed power all the time regardless of the wiper switch position. This gives the motor juice to return the wipers to the home position once the switch is turned off. You might check that first.
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Thanks Dave, I'll check that out. However I found what looked like a cam laying in the old windshield when I pulled the wiper motor out, and the cover was loose on the motor.
Thanks,
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
I would get the receiver mount tied into the front bumper. I wouldn't trust just the stamped piece that it is bolted to right now.
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Matt,
I've added a 1/4" plate (I welded it to the reviver plate) and have it bolted into the front "bumper". The "bumper" is 1/4" plate they welded across the frame when they did the shackle reversal.
Will
I've added a 1/4" plate (I welded it to the reviver plate) and have it bolted into the front "bumper". The "bumper" is 1/4" plate they welded across the frame when they did the shackle reversal.
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Installed the Brake Shut Off Valve and the last two brake lines. Then proceeded to use my new pressure bleeder to bleed the lines. Well that didn't work, can't get a good seal to the top of the master cylinder. Don't know why. Did operate the brake pedal and found some leaks. One set a union I forgot to tighten, the other two, well the last two brake lines. The ones going to the brake shut off valve. I have double flaring, especially those 3/16" lines. Tried tightening the ends, but that did not stop it. So I pulled the line sand grabbed the last two brake lines I had and bent new ones, cut and re-flared. Well the ones seems to have some out OK, the other, well 4 flairs later and I gave up, the line was getting too short. So I'll get a new brake line and perhaps a new flaring tool. I cut the shifter openings out of the tranny cover and installed it, not too bad of a fit. Now to just find the right shifter boots. I spent most of the day fitting and welding the BTF Front Tube Fenders together. they came out pretty good for my first set of tubes. A lot of welding, and a little tweaking. I tried to re-use the old inner fenders, but they won't work. So I'll have to pick up some sheet metal and fabricate some new panels.
http://jeep.wawii.com/83CJ7_NewTubSwap.htm
http://jeep.wawii.com/83CJ7_NewTubSwap.htm
Thanks,
Will
1993 Jeep Wrangler (Ok yes it's a YJ)
1953 Dodge M37 (No it's not a Jeep)
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Will, post a picture of the pressure bleeder.
Bill
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Thanks,
Will
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Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
How much of the back side of the tube do I need to weld on these Front Tube Fenders?
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Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
On the bleeder, back in the day, when I worked at a full service gas station. Yep, regular or ethyl, the mechanic used a .250 steel plate about 3/4" bigger than the outside of master cylinders, it had a male air chuck fitting screwed into it (a valve stem for a rim might also work, and make is easier to relive pressure). It was held in place with a "c" clamp, and had a rubber gasket. Air was connected at low psi ( like 3or4). and the brakes were bled. You might make one of these plates and use the rest of the power bleeder. Just a thought.
On edit, why wouldn't the plate I talked about above, work with a simple garden sprayer and some hose fittings? As long as there is no moisture.
The tube fenders, I haven't done any, but, I really don't think any weld would be needed. My only concern would be water/mud on the inside ( you probly got close to 100% penetration on the welds). My suggestion would be automotive seam sealer either from a caulk tube or brush on.
Bill
On edit, why wouldn't the plate I talked about above, work with a simple garden sprayer and some hose fittings? As long as there is no moisture.
The tube fenders, I haven't done any, but, I really don't think any weld would be needed. My only concern would be water/mud on the inside ( you probly got close to 100% penetration on the welds). My suggestion would be automotive seam sealer either from a caulk tube or brush on.
Bill
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Installed the new ignition switch, and then the steering wheel. Managed to get two good brake flare jobs done, and installed the last two brake lines. I also managed to get the brake bleeder to work, and bleed the brakes. Still have a couple of small fitting leaks at the shut off valve, will pull the valve and check the fittings. So I figured I'd see if she would run. Well, not the first crank, be she does run! I only have 6 volts at the coil, and that wasn't enough to power the fuel injection. I mounted the fuel injection unit under the dash, cleaned up the remaining lighting and tach feed wires. With the exception of mounting the dimmer switch the dash side is done. Discovered the 6 volts at the coil was because the previous owner or Jeep used a resistor wire in the harness. So I pulled a new wire from another switched source in the engine bay and feed the fuel injection from it. I had to undo my harness to add the new wire, but it came back out just as nice as it was when I finished it yesterday. Engine starts and runs just like it did before I started this tub swap, great. This afternoon and evening I fabricated the inner fenders for the BTF Tube Fenders. I was pleased with how they came out, and that they almost match each other. In an effort to ensure maximum tire clearance, I left the headers exposed. This was based on frame and spring pack rub marks. The rear panel on both fenders is a separate panel, and is left off during installation so that you can access the fender to tub bolts. I filled the non-welded portion of the seams, as well as the tube to plate in the inner fender well areas.
Thanks,
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
22 Days and a 138 ours later and it's all but done. I now have a small list of items to finish/fix:
- Change Brake Master Cylinder
- Fix NPT fitting brake leak at Brake Shut Off Valve
- Install Front Fender Side Lights
- Fix any Issue related to blown Fuel Gauge/Back-Up Light Fuse
- Install New Ignition Key Assembly
- Install Winch Power Leads
- Install Horn, and Fix Horn Button
- Install wire ends to Rear Dome Lamp Leads
- Fabricate Hydraulic Clutch Pass-through Plate and Install
- Install Fuel Injection Wire Loom Firewall Close Out Plug
- Touch up any of my Painting
http://jeep.wawii.com/83CJ7_NewTubSwap.htm
- Change Brake Master Cylinder
- Fix NPT fitting brake leak at Brake Shut Off Valve
- Install Front Fender Side Lights
- Fix any Issue related to blown Fuel Gauge/Back-Up Light Fuse
- Install New Ignition Key Assembly
- Install Winch Power Leads
- Install Horn, and Fix Horn Button
- Install wire ends to Rear Dome Lamp Leads
- Fabricate Hydraulic Clutch Pass-through Plate and Install
- Install Fuel Injection Wire Loom Firewall Close Out Plug
- Touch up any of my Painting
http://jeep.wawii.com/83CJ7_NewTubSwap.htm
Thanks,
Will
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1953 Dodge M37 (No it's not a Jeep)
1946 & 1949 Dodge Power Wagons
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Will, on the horn, check the relay in the wiring harness first. Also what is the brake shut off for, or is this a e-brake sys.
Bill
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Bill,
I know the horn switch in the steering column is not all there, as a screw is missing and the ring is loose, but I'll check out the relay as well. Do they make a horn button kit for the steering column?
Yea, the Brake shut-off switch is what he'll be using as a parking brake. The parking brake guts were gone in the rear axle as well as the cables to them, so this seemed like a good solution. I don't like the electric line-loc valves, and this mechanical one used by sprint car racers seemed to be the best solutions, that is if I can get the 1/8" NPT thread connections to seal.
Will
I know the horn switch in the steering column is not all there, as a screw is missing and the ring is loose, but I'll check out the relay as well. Do they make a horn button kit for the steering column?
Yea, the Brake shut-off switch is what he'll be using as a parking brake. The parking brake guts were gone in the rear axle as well as the cables to them, so this seemed like a good solution. I don't like the electric line-loc valves, and this mechanical one used by sprint car racers seemed to be the best solutions, that is if I can get the 1/8" NPT thread connections to seal.
Will
Thanks,
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
I'm sure the horn parts can be found. I think I've seen them at o'reillys.
Some of our older fire machines used a line lock. They were mechanical, you had to hold the foot brake on, then throw the little lever. It was on the dash. The lever was about 2" in length. Throw has about 90 degrees.
Don't know if they were both axles or just 1. I believe they were called Micro-Lock.
Bill
Some of our older fire machines used a line lock. They were mechanical, you had to hold the foot brake on, then throw the little lever. It was on the dash. The lever was about 2" in length. Throw has about 90 degrees.
Don't know if they were both axles or just 1. I believe they were called Micro-Lock.
Bill
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Mico Lock...... no R. Oh, there is a relay to run the horn that is built in to the fuse panel. The relay is fired when the horn wire in the column comes in contact with ground.
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Yep, I was aware of the Mico Lock's but wasn't wanting to spend that much.
Thanks,
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Will, I am using a simple ball valve for my parking brake.
I got the fittings at Napa to go from pipe thread to the brake line fittings.
It is plumbed to my rear brakes.
Push on the brake peddle and turn the ball valve.
I got the fittings at Napa to go from pipe thread to the brake line fittings.
It is plumbed to my rear brakes.
Push on the brake peddle and turn the ball valve.
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Tom, basically the same here, it's a Parker High Pressure Brake Valve, with fittings to go from NPT to 3/16 brake lines. Just for some reason have an issue getting a good seal between the fitting and the valve.
Thanks,
Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Bill,vlucdog wrote:Will, on the horn, check the relay in the wiring harness first. Also what is the brake shut off for, or is this a e-brake sys.
Turns out an issue in both missing horn button and turn canceling parts in the steering column, and bad horn relay (dirty interment contacts).
Can't find anyone one seller who sells all the needed parts, but looks like I'll have to order from two vendors to get everything I need.
CAM, Canceling - J4487816 (17232.04)
Repair Kit, Horn - J4004167 (Screw-3), J3186964 (Bushing), J3242217 (Reviver), J3186965 (Spring), J3187257 (Retainer), J3187249 (Pin), J3187255 (Spring)
Will
Thanks,
Will
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1953 Dodge M37 (No it's not a Jeep)
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Well,
I'm down to replacing the Brake Master Cylinder, and assembling the Steering Wheel, just as soon as I get parts.
I'm down to replacing the Brake Master Cylinder, and assembling the Steering Wheel, just as soon as I get parts.
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Thanks,
Will
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Will
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Will, my first thought was, what wrong with my screen. Then I realized what was up.
Bill
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Re: CJ7 Tub Swap for my Brother
Do ya like that play on your eyes? I though it was a good way to show the transformation. Hey your newest project looks like you should have some fun.vlucdog wrote:Will, my first thought was, what wrong with my screen. Then I realized what was up.
Thanks,
Will
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1953 Dodge M37 (No it's not a Jeep)
1946 & 1949 Dodge Power Wagons
Will
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1953 Dodge M37 (No it's not a Jeep)
1946 & 1949 Dodge Power Wagons