OK, do I or don't I. Re-Build vs Re-Power

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, the YJ made it home fine from the Hog Eat, but the oil looks almost as dark as motor oil now and is a lower than when I left the house. The engine burnt ~1/2 qt of oil in the 165 miles, I did get 15 MPG though.

The 4.0 has a new high volume oil pump, water pump and timing set as well as valve cover. It will need the strocker parts and a new exhaust manifold/header though. The tranny will clearly have to be gone trough, and I think the noise I was hearing was the TC fins/vanes loose.

The 1990 318 from a Dodge W250 has 102K miles on it and has a lot of carbon build up in the exhaust ports. The crank turns but not a full 360º, soaking the rings now to free it up and hopefully do a compression test. It will likely need a good head job at a minimum, as well as a good cleaning. I have the complete truck wiring harness, computer and dash, so adapting it's TBI should be some what simple. The tranny fluid looks nicely red, and it's a 4 speed OD which is a nice plus. The A518 is however 9" longer than the TF999 in the Jeep. But with the NP231 (which will bolt up to the A518) has the SYE, so the yoke is only 3.5" further rearward than the stock Jeep's ride height location.

Cost wise I suspect it might be a draw, unless i have to go into the block or tranny of the 318/518.

The 1993 Jeep Wrangler's 4.0-liter was rated at 190 horsepower at 4,600 rpm with 235 ft-lbs of torque at 3,200 rpm.
While the 1990 Dodge's W250 5.2-liter produces a 170 horsepower at 4,000 rpm with 260 ft-lbs of torque at 2,500 rpm.
(4.6L Low-buck, low CR "rockcrawler" is 231hp @ 4400rpm, 327lbft @ 2000rpm)

So it's 20 less horsepower, but 25 more ft-lbs and thier at a lower rpm where they are needed for off road fun.

So your thoughts, comments, suggestions, or warning are appreciated.

[TSEJEEPERS]

I really do not know much about the Dodge stuff but I would think that you would have to legthen your wheel base to run it. (not a bad thing)
Maybe look into the fuel tank that Fraser and Duke run if you want to keep the tank in the stock place or do a fuel cell.
Also look at getting rid of the Dana 35 in the rear at the same time.
When I rebuilt my engine by the time I bought the parts and did the machine work. I spent right around $1600.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, I've decided to focus on a stroker rather than ending up re-building the V-8 and then having to fit it. Any one with experience or recommendations?

Here is where I believe I need to be:
□ - 3.905" - Bore (30 over)
□ - 9.440" - Deck Height (~0.013 mill)
□ - 3.895" - Stroke, Jeep 4.2L 3.895" crank (Scat 942010 Crank) - $434.99 at Jegs
□ - 6.125" - Connecting Rod, Jeep 4.0L - $40.99 ea for $245.94 at Jegs
□ - 1.353" - Pin Height (Keith-Black Silvolite (UEM) forged stroker IC944 Pistons, 21cc dish volume) - $539.95 at Summit
□ - 0.041" - Compressed Gasket Thickness (Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket, P4529242/54249) - $39.95 at Summit
□ - 0.0145" - Deck Clarence
□ - 0.0555" - Quench Height
□ - 60cc - Increased Head Combustion chamber
□ - Comp Cam 68-232-4, Duration 250/256, Lift .460/.476 camshaft (Intake valve Closing Value 55), K68-231-4 - Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kit - $339.95 at Summit
□ - Ported & Polished HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
□ - Mopar Gasket set - $67.99 at Summit
□ - 0.0555" quench height
□ - Ford 24lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR (Part no. FMS-M9593-A302/Venom #735-HP-624-8 & Hesco HES9195FR) - $225.99 at Jegs or $219.99 at TRE & $179.00 at HESCO
□ - 62mm Throttle Body - $180 at Fastman
□ - 9.28 - Static Compression Ratio (SCR)
□ - 7.97 - Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR)
□ - 89 - Targeted Octane rating
Not sure where the HP and Torque will end up, but I suspect somewhere close to 245/320 area.

However looks like I only need to add axles and tires to the V-8 and just build a buggy around it?

[vlucdog]

Will, what's the length difference between the 999 and the A518? From the bell mounting to the TC mounting point. The stock YJ driveshaft is c/c 16" at the center of the u- joints, add 3" to that for the SYE.
I would do the engine/transcombo thats less $ and has the longest driveshaft.
Don't forget the $225 for the a518 cardan drive shaft. Bit you would probably need that for the stroked with any lift.
Bill

[TSEJEEPERS]

I have always wanted to do a 4.0L stroker engine.
Keep us updated!
I would think there are a few members in the club that have the 258 crank that could save you a few bucks.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Bill,

Yea the length was my first concern. The A518 was 9" longer, but with the SYE NP231, the yoke would only be approximately 3.5" further rearward. I have the CV Drive shaft for the SYE 231 already.

I've come to the conclusion that building the 4.0L even into a stroker should be less money and more power than the stock '90 318, so I'm planning on that now. Just need to determine if I stroke it, what recipe do I use.


Tom,

Figured some here might have some interest/experience. Always looking for both and good part buys.

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Guess I really was lucky I made it home from Pekin in the Jeep. I drove it today and didn't get 6 miles from the house before the tranny quite, in all gears. So I guess I'll start sooner than later on the Jeep re-pair/build.